Restoration of
The William H Albury
and Traveler
If you would like to donate to the project:
PERC
501(c)(3) donation
(inclusion pending)
Contact Scott
scottweatherford@hotmail.com
cell +1 (242) 357-6618

Traveler Status (most recent reports at the top)
Traveler's Position - Last updated: 5/31/2021
Traveler ready to leave Norfolk - 5/30/2021
Eric & crew arriving at Traveler today.
Dr. Mac Earnest drove them to Norfolk this morning.
They will get the boat ready to leave tomorrow for Oriental NC.
More to come.
Correspondence from Northwind Yacht Service re: status of Traveler's engine 5/17/2021
From: Northwind Yacht Service
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021, 11:51 AM
To: Scott Weatherford

Subject: Traveler Invoice

Hello Scott,

At this point our scope of work is completed on Traveler and she is ready to motor away. Installing the primary fuel filter turned into a larger job than hoped for. Everything was corroded, rusted and would not come apart easily. After changing the filter, priming the engine turned into a large job as well. Every fitting needed to be opened and bled. Every injector supply and return line in the system needed to be broken free, bled and tightened. Some of the connections need to be repaired. Whoever takes the boat NEEDS to make a fuel tank dip stick and make sure they do not run the tank out of fuel. It is a bear to bleed as typical for a Perkins 4-108. A 1/4" dowel will work. I have supplied 2 spare Racor filter cartridges. I ran the engine for 4 hours yesterday, mostly in forward but also in neutral and reverse. I ran it again for two hours this morning checking for any fuel leaks. All is good, she runs strong with hardly any smoking. For the first two months I lent you a Hubble connector from 30amp pedestal to an extension cord to run a battery charger for the boat. I needed that one for other projects and purchased one to stay with Traveler. It will be needed later. The crew can take it with them. I have extra fenders on the boat that don't go with her. They are the orange round fenders. If I am gone when she leaves Rebel please have the crew leave them here. The engine key is in the ignition. I have the engine thru-hull CLOSED. It will need to opened before starting the engine. Also the engine temperature gauge does not work. It always shows 240 degrees. I have used a laser temperature gun to check the engine while under load and she stayed at approx 165 degrees. She is ready to go.

Additional hours added up as we were working on the fuel system. It made no sense to stop work as it needed to get done one way or the other. This brought an additional $1440.35 to your invoice over the $3000.00 you authorized. I've done my absolute best to be conscientious and bring this work in as frugally as possible. There was no other way than to complete the engine work.

The Captain I mentioned is Captain Corey Roy. He is on our dock. He has an old wooden Nova Scotia schooner and is also a Captain on the Schooner American Rover. I've spoken to him about you and Traveler. His contact is [removed for privacy].

Please call with any questions.

Best,
Mike

4/1/2021 From the desk of Scott Weatherford
The following videos are from Mike Aiken from North Wind Yacht Service in Norfolk, VA.  He has been very helpful and is coordinating the mechanical work for us.  Following the videos are Mike's report and my feedback.
Engine
Transmission
Throttle/shifter

 
 
Here is the 3/31/21 report from Mike Aiken (in black), my 3/31 response (in red) and his 4/1 followup (again, in black):
 

Good News! We got the engine running today. Amy sent you YouTube links. I had the starter put in last night. Today we at NWYS started trying to get it running. I put both supply and return fuel in 5 gal can with new fuel. Tried the new starter and the engine turned easy. We hand primed the system and the engine slowly came to life and then ran smooth.

Here are some findings:

  1. The raw water pump needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Its not the impeller. It is pumping water but it leaks. See video.
    3/31: Yes I saw the leaking water pump. I agree that it should be rebuilt or replaced. Sometimes it is almost better to replace it, if it costs a lot of time to remove and reinstall. Suggest getting quotes both ways.

  2. Transmission - See Video, The shifting cable is bad. The engine only ran in FWD at first. After removing the cable and shifting by hand we could check the tranny. It shifts easily. The cable needs to be replaced.
    3/31: Does the control box seem to be ok, if so again need quote for new cable and installed.

  3. Prop is probably very fouled. At the dock the engine does not seem to smoke much.
    3/31: I will mention this below.

  4. Alternator seems to be working fine. Battery was full from the 110v charger so didn't get a chance to load up the alt. But it seemed to be working. Will need to keep an eye on it, chances are the belt will need replacing.
    4/1: After running the engine today for 2 hours (one in neutral and one in forward) there was a fair amount of belt dust. The belt is lose and should be replaced with a spare on board. If the bolts are not frozen this shouldn't take that much time. There will be time running to get the belts.

  5. Engine kill switch works.
  6. Engine key and start button circuit are working.
Things that need to be considered to move the boat under power:
  1. Fuel in the tank. There is a bottom drain on the tank so maybe it could be drained. I don't know how much fuel is in the tank or what condition its in.
    3/31: CAN YOU GET A QUOTE ON DRAINING THE FUEL TANK, DISPOSING OF THE OLD FUEL, AND EITHER CLEAN OR REPLACE THE OLD FUEL FILTERS.

  2. Raw water pump needs to be replaced.
  3. 4/1: New pump cost is $579.99 fixed cost plus shipping. Labor estimate 2-6 hours. Its very rusty around it from it leaking saltwater.

  4. Shifting Cable needs to be serviced or replace.
  5. 4/1: On line cables run from $50.00 to $299.00 . Until I have it pulled out I won't know exactly what it is or how long it is. Labor - this is a guess- 3-5 hours. The unknown it getting to the shifter/ throttle and seeing what condition that is in to be able to remove and replace the cable. There will also be time spent locating a replacement. I just can't say until I get the old one off.

  6. Have the bottom and running gear cleaned.
    3/31: I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT THIS FOR AWHILE, CAN YOU GET A QUOTE ON HAVING THE BOTTOM CLEANED, PROPELLER CLEANED, CHECKING OUT THE INTAKE THRU HULL FITTINGS TO SEE THAT THEY ARE NOT CLOGGED OR FOULED. GET A GENERAL IDEA OF THE BOTTOM CONDITION.
    4/1: For a boat in Ok condition it would be $3.00 a foot. There will be an increase if it is severe and takes a long time. I have used the same diver for years on my boat and other boats we are taking care of. He is very fair and I'll get a report from him. So lets say $120 - $175.00

My Thoughts on the water in the engine at this point:
After running the engine for an hour or so it did not seem to raise the crankcase oil level at all. After speaking with the mechanic and seeing how rusted the old starter was I looked again for a high water mark low in the bilge. I found evidence of one. The level would have covered the starter and been over where the dip stick tube sits in engine. This is probably the water entrance to the engine. The water would have also gotten into the bell housing but not the transmission. There might be rust and corrosion on the dampener plate springs in the bell housing… and it might be fine.

I would like to run the engine at the dock for a couple of hours in and out of gear. Just see what it does and how it acts. I think this will give you a better idea of condition. Easier to fix here than underway. After doing this it would be good to change the oil and filter one more time. If we do that I would make some marks on the dip stick for oil level. The indicators on the dipstick now don't seem to make any sense.

3/31: YES I AGREE ON THIS, LETS GET A QUOTE.
4/1: I ran her on 4/1 for 2 hours. One hour in neutral at 1200 rpms, one hour at 1000 in forward and 5 min at 2500 (full) in forward. No over heating. The oil gauge, rpm gauge and volt gauge work. The temp gauge does not. You will be looking at approx $45.00 for oil and a new filter. This will be Rotella T4 diesel oil. There will be a few oilzorb pads etc. Labor of about 1-2 hours. Oil will be put in by the quart so we can mark the last quart on the stick and give a proper reference. There will be time spent getting the oil and filter and recycling the old oil.

3/31: MIKE I totally agree on your findings and suggestions, if you can get a quote on the above to me I will get back to you very quickly.

3/31: I also was thinking that if we are getting the engine running properly we should have the water hoses replaced.

4/1: Replacing hoses on the engine - estimate of $50-$100.00 in hoses. Labor estimate-2-4 hours. Again hard to call till the mechanic is into it.

I noticed there was quite a bit of rust/corrosion on the hose clamps etc.all should be replaced.

3/31: It would be very important to run the engine for a few hours at a time in gear to see if the engine over heats, as well HOW the transmission behaves.

4/1: I plan on running it a few more times for a couple of hours each. I would like to run it for a time in reverse as well. Today when reved up to 2500 rpms in fwd it smoked a fair amount. I'm assuming that the prop is very fouled. After the bottom and prop are cleaned I would run it again under load.
4/1: On top of the labor estimates I gave you above there would be my time researching parts and overseeing the work being done. In the process of my overseeing the work please know that I am working in your behalf to get the best work in the least about of time... As I did with the starter.

- Scott
Photos from 9/3/2018 (posted here 4/4/2021)
Last updated: 4/1/2021  --  Please send comments to svbreakaway@gmail.com
© Scott Weatherford 2020-2021